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Diffraction in photography

Table of contents:

Diffraction & Starburst effects in Photography

What is Diffraction

When light rays pass through a very very small aperture, they spread out in different directions at the edge of aperture-blades. This phenomenon which results in some blurring or softness in the produced photograph is called diffraction.

Table of contents:

Effect of Aperture on Diffraction

To explain what is diffraction in detail, a separate article is required. For the time being, let us know that the effects of diffraction creeps in an image when we use a very small aperture. Large apertures like f/2, f/2.8 will produce almost no diffraction.

Diffraction and starburst effects in photography Same scenario shot at f/8 and f/16 f/8 f/16 30s, iso 64, 24mm eqv. Nikon d810, Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8, Princep Ghat,Kolkata 2015

Above two images were taken at f/8 & f/16, other settings remaining same.

Here are two photographs of the Vidyasagar Setu, Kolkata, India. Both were taken seconds apart with 30 sec. shutter-speed, iso 64, 24mm eqv. They differ only in the setting of aperture. One was shot at f/8, the other at f/16. The f/8 version shows less diffraction (sharper) and less starburst, while the f/16 version shows more diffraction (less sharp), and more starburst.

Diffraction causes loss of sharpness in a photograph. It is very simple to verify. Set up a tripod, and shoot the same scenario with apertures f/8, f/16 and f/22. Keep same focusing point for all the shots and vary shutter-speed to maintain same brightness level. Now compare the photographs in 100% resolution. You will find that at f/22 ... f/32 range, the photographs are less sharp than those shot at f/8, f/9... The spreading of light-rays in different directions (due to very small aperture hole) at the edge of the aperture-blades caused this loss of sharpness.

High-resolution sensors (where generally pixels are smaller) are prone to diffraction. For example, cameras having 36mp or higher, are easily effected by diffraction in comparison to low-resolution cameras (where generally sensor-pixels are larger).

In the f/16 shot, aperture was stopped down two stops (from f/8 to f/16), other variables (shutter-speed & iso remaining unchanged). As a result, the image was under-exposed by two stops in comparison to the f/8 image. The exposure was equalised in post-processing by raising two stops.


Please check the following cropped versions of the f/8 and f/16 images.


Narrow aperture causes Diffraction & Starburst Narrow aperture → Diffraction & Starburst f/8 - Less diffraction, less starburst f/16 - More diffraction, more starburst

Above : cropped area of the bridge.
At narrow aperture, sharpness reduces due to diffraction,
light stars are prominent due to starburst effect.


Narrow aperture causes Diffraction and Starburst Narrow aperture → Diffraction & Starburst f/8 - Less diffraction, less starburst f/16 - More diffraction, more starburst

Above : cropped area of the far end. Effects same as above.



diffraction and starburst effect cropped view

Cropped: f/8 and f/16


we find that the f/8 version is sharper than the f/16 version. This is because diffraction has taken place in the latter due to the narrow aperture f/16.
Again another cropped area from same shots :


diffraction and starburst effect cropped view

Cropped: f/8 and f/16



and same here; observe that the wires in the f/16 version have lost their sharpness in comparison to the f/8 version.

Why did I shoot the second image when I got proper exposure with the first one? The answer is at the bottom of this page.

I would like to add another pair of photographs as the example of diffraction in photography.


diffraction at f/11 and f/32

left: f/11,  right: f/32

diffraction at f/11 and f/32 another crop

left: f/11,  right: f/32


The same scenario was shot with tripod within very minimum period of time (this time with different shutter-speeds). As usual, the photograph shot at f/11 is sharper than the one shot with f/32 as seen in both the cropped area.

In a nutshell, we should avoid smallest apertures to avoid diffraction. But if we widen the aperture, we will be left with less depth of field which is not suitable for landscape photography (generally). To shoot a landscape, seascape, cityscape/architectures, we want everything in focus, from front to back. So we may have indecision between the following contradicting facts:

◉  We want maximum depth-of field, so smaller aperture is to be used.
◉  We want no diffraction, so we should avoid smaller apertures.

Sweet-spot of a lens

To find which aperture value of a lens balances maximum depth-of field and minimum diffraction, some experiments can be done with a particular lens as follows:

  1. Choose an outdoor scenario to shoot.
  2. It should have elements in the front, middle & far.
  3. Set your tripod in an appropriate place.
  4. Do not move it until you complete the experiment.
  5. Set lens VR/IS/OS (if any) to off position.
  6. Set white balance (may be auto), focal length.
  7. Set aperture to f/4;
  8. Focus properly.
  9. Set shutter-speed and ISO for proper exposure.
  10. Shoot.
  11. Repeat the above with f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16 and f/22.
  12. Do not hesitate to use apertures like f/7, f/9, f/10 ...
  13. In your PC, examine the images in 100% zoomed-in.

You will observe that photographs with smaller apertures (f/22, f/20 etc.) are soft due to diffraction; you may also notice that photographs with larger apertures (f/4, f/5 etc.) are soft due to less/shallow depth-of field. They may also be effected by optical aberrations. In photographs with mid-zone-apertures like f/7, f/8, f/9, f/10 or f/11 etc., you will find the sharpest image where both diffraction and depth-of field are balanced. That aperture may be the sweet-spot of your lens.

Note : The above set of photographs are assumed to be of same focal lengths. For a different focal length, use another set of photographs.


Exposure triangle, a high ISO photograph

Original

Exposure triangle, a high ISO photograph

Cropped


The above four photographs (of same scenario) , were shot with apertures f/11, f/16, f/22 and f/29. Please observe the diffraction in small-aperture images.

Effect of Aperture on Starburst/Sunburst

In photography, starburst or sunburst is the effect where we can record the star-like rays of the Sun, or of any other small and bright point of light-source. Smaller the aperture, more intense will be the rays.


Sunburst effect in photography

Tso Moriri Lake, Ladakh, India 2018, Nikon d810, Nikon 16-35mm f/4, f/22, 1/60 sec., ISO 64, 16mm eqv. Sunburst effect


It is very easy to shoot starburst or sunburst effect by stopping down the aperture as narrow as possible; but wait, just now we have come to know the effects of diffraction, so we should choose an aperture as small as it allows very less or no diffraction.

The number of rays recorded in a starburst effect will depend upon the lens you are using. Or, more subtly, it will depend upon the number of aperture-blades in the lens. Higher the number of blades, higher the number of rays.

Again, if the number of aperture-blades in the lens is even, same number of rays will be produced. But, if the number of aperture-blades is odd, number of rays will be produced double the number of blades. For instance, if number of aperture-blades is 8 or 10 or 12, number of rays will be 8 or 10 or 12. But if number of aperture-blades is 7 or 9 or 11, number of rays will be 14 or 18 or 22. To explain the reason behind this is beyond the scope of this article.


Sunburst effect in photography

Manali, Himachal Pradesh, India 2016, Nikon d810, Tamron 24-70mm, f/22, 1/250 sec., ISO 250, 55mm eqv. Sunburst effect


You can also beautify the effect of sunburst effect by partially blocking the Sun with, say branches, flowers, mountain-edges etc. as in the above and the following example :


Sunburst effect in photography

Nikon d7000, Nikon 35mm f/1.8[dx], f/20, 1/4000 sec., ISO 500, 52mm eqv. Sunburst effect


Sunburst effect in photography

Betab Valley, Pahelgam, J&K, India 2018, Nikon d810, Nikon 16-35mm, f/18, 1/25 sec., ISO 160, 16mm eqv. Sunburst effect


Let us again recall the photographs of the Vidyasagar Setu, Kolkata. A question was raised : "Why did I shoot the second image when I got proper exposure with the first one?"


Diffraction and starburst effect

Vidyasagar Setu, Kolkata, West Bengal, India 2015, Nikon d810, Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8


I used both the shots for the final image. The 2nd image is underexposed by 2 stops than the 1st one; because f/8 to f/16 is stopping down by 2 stops. So, I raised the exposure of the 2nd image by 2 stops in post-processing. Now they are more or less same.


Diffraction and starburst effect

Vidyasagar Setu, Kolkata, West Bengal, India 2015, Nikon d810, Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8


But they are not the same actually. The first image is Ok; but in the 2nd one, there is starburst effect, which I want to keep, and diffraction, which I dont want in my image.

Some post-processing is required here. The two images were kept as layers one upon another, the 2nd image being on the top. Then a mask was applied to conceal everything of the top layer, except the light sources on the bridge, which were having starburst effect. Some re-adjustment of exposure was required. Here is the final image after some colour adjustment and a little sharpening :


Diffraction and starburst effect

Vidyasagar Setu, Kolkata, West Bengal, India 2015, Nikon d810, Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8


The final image is actually the f/8 image, except for the light sources on the bridge, which are being displayed from the f/16 image.

Click here to check the animation how aperture affects diffraction and starburst in a photograph.











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